onsdag 21 februari 2018

More re-making

They keep growing  :)

I made this gown from Maja in 2016, intentionally too big, so that a class mate could use it for a theater play they put up at school.

This photo is from Double Wars 2017. As you can see it's vaguely Italian, say 1550s-1560s.

Then she grew and the bodice fit much better but the waist is a bit higher, making it more of a c. 1500 Italian gown. So I unpicked the black trim that went down to the waist both in the front and in the back, inspired by the trim placement on Eleonora di Toledo's gown.  Her changed shape meant that the neck opening was too narrow, so I had to unpick that trim too and widen it.

I also made tie-in sleeves and added some of the yellow fabric (the very last piece) at the bottom of the skirt.

She's really not that keen on having her photo taken ;)

fredag 9 februari 2018


I had hoped that it would be enough to take in the bodice of this gown only in the sides, and not have to unpick the gold trim and all the fake pearls around the neck, but unfortunately not. I tried, and I tried, but in the end I had to cut off the straps in front and move them closer to the middle.

Yesterday I sewed the skirt to the bodice by hand at Gotvik's sewing meeting, which I hold bi-weekly at my place.

The sleeve bands are too wide over the biceps too, but I'm not sure if I want to take them in permanently yet, since I have started going to the the gym every second day.

This is how it should be worn: with a loose gown over the kirtle and with some kind of headwear.

The page where I discuss the outfit more in detail.

måndag 5 februari 2018

A sottana and camicia based on preserved 16th century garments

One of last year's big projects was making a reconstruction (within certain limits) of the funeral gown of Eleonora di Toledo, duchess of Florence, who died in 1562. This included the gown, a netted caul and partlet, and a camicia (smock) based on another preserved 16th century garment, this one from Prato, another Tuscan town.

You can read all about it over here, on its own documentation page, where there are also lots of photos.

söndag 4 februari 2018

Finally some photos!

It has been finished for a month, but either she has been ill, ow had exams, or I have been working or otherwise busy.  But this very busy weekend, which included celebrating Imbolc on Friday, annual general meeting for Gotvik and celebrating my husband's birthday on Friday and celebrating my youngest niece's birthday today, we finally managed to get photos taken.

Writing the documetnation will take a few more days, but for now I give you two photos of Valeria in her Eleonora di Toledo gown.

Previous blog posts about this project:

The fabric - guess what I'm going to make?

What I am making for Valeria

Finished bodice

The embrodered camicia ready to be worn

Details of the construction of the skirt.

Embroidered smock progress

måndag 29 januari 2018

A tip: Fashioning the self in slavery and freedom

This is an excellent tumblr, and facebook page for the same.

It's a page by historian Jonathan Square which, I quote: "explores the politics of fashion among people of African descent during slavery and the emancipation era."

Well worth following in both places.

Henri Christophe, ruler of Haiti with his wife Marie-Louise Coidavid 
and daughter (either Françoise-Améthyste or Anne-Athénaïre).

torsdag 18 januari 2018

My latest costume project: 15th century Italian

There will be documentation and inspiration pictures later - fro now I'll just put up a few photos that my husband just took of me.