onsdag 16 augusti 2017

My teal regency gown is photographed

And has lots of pictures of it, the underpinnings, my inspirations etc, etc, over at its page.


tisdag 15 augusti 2017

The regency gown is finished

It hangs funnily, despite some pinning, because that's what drop-front gowns do :)



Now I'm going to start on a cap from dotted and embroidered net.

söndag 13 augusti 2017

Re-making and making things up as I go along

This is the last day of my holidays and I thought I'd do something that I really enjoy. So I spent the afternoon sewing and listening to The Cleric Quintet on audiobook.

First I started re-making my regency stays again. I showed the first re-make in my previous post, when I had taken them in c. 8 cm. However, while they worked as they were I knew that my bust would look more correct if I shortened the bust gores. So that's what I did.

Yesterday I was at my friend Anna's place contributing with advice and moral support (and artificial whale bone) when she started patterning her first stays, late 18th century transitional stays with cups. While talking (i'm good at multi-tasking ; ) I took in my regency petticoat.

Current version of stays and petticoat:


When they were first made:


Then I started on the bodice. I made the sleeves yesterday, though I think I may have to re-do them, they are maybe too wide. We'll see how it looks when they are sewn in to the bodice.

First I had to make a new pattern, but with the help of my previous, too large pattern, or at least the front piece, since I couldn't find the back piece, it wasn't that difficult.

Apart from the usual sources such as Patterns of Fashion and Kvinnligt mode under två sekel  by Pernilla Rasmussen and Britta Hammar, I also looked at a couple of patterns from the internet, generously shared by the 19th US Regiment of InfantryCapt. Angus Langham's Company1812-1815
Here you find their images and patterns of extant gows and outerwear.

And I sort of make it up as I go along. It is all hand sewn, as the rest of my regency clothing except for the stays, which were a test version whee only the lacing holes in the back are hand sewn. And making things by hand you can do it piece by piece and figure out, for example, exactly where to attach the skirt later. So I am basically making it up as I go along. There is one narrow channel more to make, the bodice will be gathered in front, before I have to figure out the skirt. And I can do that tomorrow, when I'm less tired.




lördag 12 augusti 2017

Regency progress

Today, with one day left of my holidays, I finished the embroidery on the skirt of my new regency frock. However, I need to make a new bodice pattern before I can continue with it. A help in this would be a petticoat that fits in the bodice, so I have now started re-making the petticoat; and it ought to be finished today, so I can work on the bodice pattern tomorrow.

Here's the embroidered, washed and ironed skirt.


Now I'll get back to sewing and listening to the Cleric Quintet by R.A Salvatore as audio book.

The picnic is on September 2nd - it ought to be possible to have everything done by then.

söndag 23 juli 2017

Returning to the Regency

I of course blame Alfhild. She was the one who got me into calligraphy and illumination, something I enjoy immensely, and she re-awakened my interest in making clothing from the early 19th century. This is my previous excursion into this period, made in 2006.


But it is too big now, and it's more fun to make somthing new anyway. or some things - since I have already bought fabric for three gowns ;)

And made a new bonnet.



This was a 60s style straw hat, tall, and with a sort of lamphade brim, that I bought very cheaply at a market som years ago, more to support the organization who sold it than because it fit me. Because it didn't - just like cloche hats that type of hat makes me look like I'm nothing but broad cheek bones.
So I never wore it. And one night last week I couldn't sleep and went up to get some more painkillers, and to cut the hat into a bonnet :)
I need to line the crown, because it snags my hair, but I love how tall it is.

I have also bought material for another bonnet: a braided place mat and a cotton satin sheet that was reduced by 70%. It will be enough to make a summer spencer too.


I was lazy this time and didn't unravel the stitching on the braid, but just cut the place mat to shape. I have made hats from place mats before, unraveling the braid and shaping it while sewing, like this cute 1940s breton hat:


But it does take quite a while to do.

I have also taken in my regency stays so that they fit my new size (if I made new ones I would make the gores in the cups somewhat shorter).


I need to take in my petticoat somewhat too of course.

I have also sewn the skirt on my first new gown, and started embroidering it.


The colour is seen in several late 18th-early 19th century pictures, though then probably made from silk, and not from cotton. Inspiration for embroidering it was gowns like this:

Which of course is silk, and has a much more rich and complicated embroidery. But I think my gown will look pretty with its cotton embroidery. The pattern I use is the same as on the cap of my folk costume, which is roughly from this period.

The other gowns I plan are to made from a saree that hasn't arrived yet, and from this printed thin cotton:


The bonnet with purple cotton satin is of course intended to be worn with that gown.

I also bought these shoes on sale yesterday, and though the metal details aren't to my liking, I think they will do. Especially after I've painted over the brass ;)


We plan to have a picnic Gunnebo House the first weekend in September, so I have to finish at least one gown by then.

onsdag 19 juli 2017

Pondering Quattrocento caps

As you saw I made a small linen cap for my working class Italian 15th century outfit, based on several paintings.


But now I am re-making a much fancier Italian 15th century gown, which needs something equally fancy to put on the head.

So I started looking at paintings from the second half of the 15th century, and came up with these other examples of caps:

Del Cossa: Triumph of Minerva. c. 1480
Several examples of white coifs tied under the chin.



Francesco del Cossa: Triumph of Venus.  c. 1480
Two red coifs tied under the chin.




An embroidered coif, Filippino Lippi


Ippolita Sforza, by Lorenzo Costa 1490.
Cap placed on the back of the head, decorated with pearls.



Neroccio de Landi, unknown woman.
She wears a cap made of the same fabric as her under gown, and edged with pearls, and with a brooch or jewel at the top front.

Carlo Crivelli: St. Ursula 1473
Like the coifs in the del Cossa paintings her cap has deep cuts at the temples. It is of the same colour, if not maybe the same fabric, as the body of her gown.


Unknown Florentine painter, ca 1460-70
Her cap appear sot be stiffer and more buliltup than the othe rcaps seen her, but has the same shape, with deep cuts over the temples. Decorated with small pearls and gold and worn with a veil hanging from it in the back.


There is also a preserved Venetian cufietta, c. 1480-1520, which has some resemblance to what we see in these image. Thoughwith out the deep cutouts in front.





There are of course other types of headwear in 15th cnetury Italy - veils, of course, but also some seriously weird "half caps", such as this:


Here the front of the coif is there, but the back has been removed and the hair hangs partly over it at the sides.
Those I definitely need to do some more thinking about.